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The island in facts6

A shield volcano, two slopes and two climates, a natural park over two thirds of the island: Madeira's nature in a few facts.

  • Origin

    A 7-million-year-old shield volcano on Cretaceous oceanic crust

    The island is the emerged part of a large shield volcano, Miocene to Holocene in age, built on the African plate by a hotspot whose activity began more than 5.2 million years ago. Two hotspots shaped the archipelago: Madeira's (Madeira, Porto Santo, Desertas) and the Canaries' (Selvagens).

  • The central massif

    8,200 ha above 1,400 m. Pico Ruivo 1,862 m, Pico do Areeiro 1,818 m

    The range divides the island into two steep-sided slopes; erosion of the pyroclastic rocks by torrential waters carves deep valleys and precipices. To the west, Paul da Serra peaks at Pico Ruivo do Paul (1,640 m) and Bica da Cana (1,620 m). A Natural Monument, SPA and SAC under Natura 2000; devastating free grazing ended in 2003 and the vegetation is recovering despite the 2010 fires.

Laurissilva6

A twenty-million-year-old laurel forest, World Heritage since December 1999: what it is, where to see it, what it makes.

  • Age

    About 20 million years, a Tertiary relic

    Born in the Miocene and Pliocene, this forest covered southern Europe and northern Africa; the climate changes linked to the formation of the Mediterranean pushed it back to its last refuge, the Atlantic islands. It was already there when the Portuguese navigators arrived.

  • Extent

    ~15,000 ha, or 20% of the island

    Mostly on the north coast, between 300 and 1,300 m; in the south it survives only in hard-to-reach places between 700 and 1,200 m. Fully within the Natural Park, it has been a Council of Europe biogenetic reserve since 1992, a priority "Macaronesian laurel forests" habitat under the Habitats Directive, an SPA and a Natura 2000 site.

Levadas5

Six centuries of channels and hand-dug tunnels: why, how many, which ones to walk.

  • Why

    Carry water from the rainy north to the arid south

    To farm the island, settlers had to thin the forest and build a great many channels, the levadas, carrying water from the north coast to the drier south coast — the growth of villages followed these channels for nearly six centuries.

  • How many

    103 main publicly managed levadas

    Figure from the UNESCO nomination file prepared by the Regional Government; eight of them, totalling 25.20 ha of nominated property and a 7,584 ha buffer zone, represent the whole. They serve human consumption, irrigation, traditional mills, electricity generation and walking.

Ocean5

Marine reserves, whales and dolphins, the monk seal of the Desertas, seabirds: Madeira's Atlantic.

  • Garajau

    First marine reserve (1986): 376 ha, fishing banned

    Proposed by divers worried about the desertification of the seabed, between Ponta do Lazareto and Ponta da Oliveira down to 50 m; calm, clear waters, dusky groupers and giant manta rays, access by the Cais do Lazareto or Garajau beach.

  • The Desertas and the monk seal

    12,586 ha reserve, protected since 1990; conservation project launched in 1988

    Ilhéu Chão, Deserta Grande and Bugio, 12 nautical miles from Ponta de São Lourenço, shelter a small colony of Mediterranean monk seals watched permanently by the Vigilantes da Natureza; boat visits with regional forestry institute authorisation. With luck, the animal can be spotted from Ponta de São Lourenço.

Nature places47

Laurel forests, forest parks, waterfalls, reserves and headlands beaten by the waves: the corners of nature to see with your own eyes.

  • 🌿 Nature

    Maciço Montanhoso Central

    • 🏅 Regional network of natural monuments
    • 🏅 Protected area

    The whole central range above 1,400 m, about 8,200 hectares classified a Natural Monument. Two blocks make it up: to the east the island's highest peaks, Pico Ruivo (1,862 m) and Pico do Areeiro (1,818 m); to the west the high points of Paul da Serra, Pico Ruivo do Paul (1,640 m) and Bica da Cana (1,620 m). The ragged relief comes from the differential erosion of water on pyroclastic rock. It is also a geological and high-altitude vegetation reserve, and the only known nesting place of Zino's petrel.

  • 🌿 Nature

    Chão da Ribeira (Seixal)

    • 🏅 Laurissilva, World Heritage (1999)

    A green valley above Seixal, one of the five gateways into the Laurissilva. The valley floor is farmed: terraces and tool sheds line the stream bed. A small picnic park has a barbecue, tables and benches; this is where the Festa do Panelo is held in January, when that stew of vegetables and cured meats is cooked and shared. The place also serves as the starting point for walks and for canyoning outings.

  • 🌿 Nature

    Ponta de São Lourenço

    • 🏅 Regional network of natural monuments
    • 🏅 Protected area

    The island's eastern tip, a world apart: a nine-kilometre volcanic peninsula, basalt with some limestone sediments, extended by the Desembarcadouro and Farol islets, where the semi-arid climate and northern winds allow only creeping plants — not a single tree. A regional Natural Monument and Natura 2000 site (1,320 ha with the marine part), an important bird area (Cory's shearwater, Bulwer's petrel, Madeiran storm petrel, terns), one of the Region's largest gull colonies, some 160 plant species including exclusive endemics, and now and then a monk seal offshore. Baía d'Abra is a remarkable anchorage; to the west, Prainha and the Piedade dunes with their 300,000-year-old fossils below the 16th-century chapel. PR 8 (4 km + 4 km, 2:30) leads to Casa do Sardinha; the tip, bought by the Region in 1994, is under total protection. Views of both coasts from Ponta do Rosto.

    Protected area: €4.50 (over 12) via SIMplifica, free for residents and under-13s